Road trip through Tamil Nadu – Part 3

The last stop on our road trip is the famous Ramanathaswamy temple. We left Kayakumari at 730 am. After 7 hrs on the road in dusts and heat we arrived Ramswaram . The myth is that Hindu God lord Rama built a bridge across the sea to Lanka in order to rescue his wife Shiva from the evil king Ravana. The place is the closest point to reach Sri Lanka.

I have to say the outside environment of this temple is quite poor. On the way we saw the Pandam bridge which is quite impressive and would be a very scenery train ride.

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outside of the temple

The visit to Ramswaram was very humble and unforgettable. For some strange reason I didn’t see the sign saying non Hindus are not allowed in the centre of the temple. I went along with Neeraja and Sita. Inside the temple this girl about age 14 approached me with a big smile said hello to me. Later on when we bumped into each other again, she was leaving with her family. She came up to me once again with a big smile said goodbye. Throughout the trip strangers showed so much kindness to me, most of them would smile and get out of their way to help me.

The most memorable  part of my temple visit was sitting down at the the entrance of the center shrine with Neeraja and Sita. The priests received our names and prayers, he walked right inside the room brought our offerings to the god Shiva.  Neeraja said she prayed for my marriage and my brother find a good job. The priest brought a garland from the inside of the temple to me and put around my neck. I felt really  humble and had tears in my eye. It was definitely  a special moment for me to be accepted and treated as the same. When we walked out, the goat and cows outside the temple came to me start eating my garland. I decided to leave the flower to the goat, it needs the flower more than I do.

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the hungry goat

To end my road trip I would like to dedicate a few lines to our driver Murugesan. He is a very kind soul had the best smile. He has two children and been driving for Neeraja for 15 years. He owns a rickshaw and that is how he makes a living. This trip he borrowed the car from his friend and gave up family time during Diwali came with us on this trip. I felt quite sorry that he had to sleep in the vehicle throughout the trip. When I asked him where he would sleep at the night, he pointed a sofa in the hotel reception . I felt quite sorry for him, coz in NZ the driver will get lots of rests and good accommodation when the are on tour. In India, life is hard , people are seem to at ease with not having much or if any comfort. He never complained about anything on this trip and looked after the three female passengers very well. He loved action movies, when we passed this road where his favorite action movie had a scene there, he asked if I could pls take a photo of him and the vehicle to bluetooth him the image. He looked really happy on the picture, I sincerely hope he has a good life, his children get good education and luck is always on his side when he is on the road. God bless him.

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Murugesan
I would never get to experience all this without the puppeteer group and the lovely Neeraja and Sita. They took such good care of me and made sure I experience different aspects of this amazing country to the fullest.

Road trip through Tamil Nadu – Part 2

We left Madurai at 9 am and arrived in Kenyakumari , the southernmost tip of India at 2pm.we found a hotel right by the sea. It had an amazing view out from the balcony. We were going to check in a holiday resort, but I insisted we check out a few options listed in LP before we settle . It was a good decision, we found the best hotel looking out to the ocean with a good rate.

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The view from our hotel balcony looking out to Vivekananda Rock

We had a delicious lunch at the hotel, I had fish curry it was so yummy and a whole lot better than the meals we had on this trip. I was feeling in much better spirit after had some good food. There were two German tourists sitting next to us and it was really cool to hear Sita conversing with them in German. I think those two German tourists were surprised a lady dresses in traditional sari can speak their lauguage with such elegance and fluency, I was really proud . After lunch we took the ferry to see this memorial, which name I can’t recall. It’s on a little island where this Tamil poet meditaed on a rock. He is also a spiritual teacher and enlightened lots of people. I need to find his famous speech in Chicago to understand the significance of this place.

(Later on I found out from Wikipedia : The Thiruvalluvar Statue is a 133 feet (40.6 m) tall stone sculpture of the Tamil poet and saint Tiruvalluvar, author of the Thirukkural. It was opened on January 1, 2000 (Millennium) and is located atop a small island near the town of Kanyakumari, where two seas and an ocean meet; the Bay of Bengal, the Arabian Sea, and the Indian Ocean . source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiruvalluvar_Statue )

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the statue

The ferry ride was less than 5 mins we all had to wear this orange life jacket. I asked people to take picture of me at the memorial place, the common problem is that most people can capture me but not the surroundings, so many pictures with me in it could end up being taken in my backyard. Surprisingly our driver take some good pictures, one of few best shots of me were taken by him.

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Neeraja, Sita and me in our life jackets

When I was walking around alone at the memorial (as it happens I always walk a lot faster than my travel companions and ended up on my own) I was also asked by a group of 10 guys to join them for a picture, they were friendly and harmless . The thing is when I’m at a spiritual place, I think people I met there are with good intention. I’m always on guard when I’m alone, but when at temples etc, most people will act kindly towards one another. You just got to follow your intuition.

We watched a beautiful sunset at the tip of the most southern point of India. It was a beach packed with tourists and families. The problem is that the place stank, soon I realized there are poos in the rocks where I had my sunset photo taken. It was quite disgusting and once again proved the saying that India is never as good or bad as it seems. You just have to laugh at the situation and accept it is what it is. Nevertheless it was very special to end the day at the place where three oceans meet, the Arabian sea, Indian ocean and the West Bengal.

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The sunset at the southernmost tip of India

After the sunset Neeraja and Sita went to the Devi Kanya Kumari temple , I had dinner alone and rested in the hotel. I went out got some masala chai and chatted with a couple from Europe. They have been to Kerala and confirmed my decision was right about not staying overnight on the houseboat. It was crowded and full of other tourists on the boat. Kerala is my next stop. My feeling towards Kerala is half half. One side I really look forward to it and think it might be the highlight of my trip, on the other end it’s the most  expensive part of the trip if it didn’t turn out well, I will be quite disappointed. Anyway no need to speculate, nothing is in my control. Try to enjoy and take India as it comes.

The next morning three of us woke up at 5am sit on the balcony and waiting for the sun to rise from the horizon. I will always cherish and remember that moment, in the early morning hearing the morning prayers and chants coming from the catholic church and the temples …

Roadtrip through Tamil Nadu – Part 1

My friend Neeraja and her cousin Sita kindly gave up their Diwali time with the families and decided to take me on a road trip start from Chennai travel to Kenyakumari the south tip of India.

Neeraja translates documents from Indian languages to English and vice versa. Sita use to work for the German embassy in Chennai. She is very articulate and has a really good sense of humor. I learnt a lot from these two ladies about the history and stories of India. Our driver Murugesan is a very kind man with a big smile, he has two kids, one 10 and one 13 both are boys, he really looked after us on this road trip.

Most common food I have had on this trip was  dosa served with chutney and sambar on leaves. It was quite simple ad most places serve very similar food, I wanted something different but it’s food and when you see so many people sleeping on the roadside , it’s a bit heartless for me to complain about the food I have. The road condition was poor and most villages we passed by had no electricity. Some scooters on the road travelling at night didn’t even have lights on. The most funny thing is when we stopped asking for police for direction, we saw two guys on the scooter with four goats in between them.We saw many temples and I almost lost track of the names of them we visited.

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the many cups of delicious chai

The temple in Thanjavour was truly magnificent. We went around 9 am finished in two hours. Everyone need to walk around bare feet, when we were leaving I saw a group of European tourists arrived with wooly socks on. the floor can be burning hot during midday .

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kids dressed in new clothes visiting temple with dad

After three hours drive on road in superb condition with no traffic due to the holiday, we arrived Madurai late in the afternoon. Went straight to the Sri Meenakashi temple.  The temples was built for Sri Meenakashi a fish eyed Goddess. The story goes that she has three breasts, when she met her husband God Shiva the third breast will melt away.

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Thanjourve temple
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Meenakshi temple
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Inside Meenakshi

We were all a bit exhausted after visiting the temple, its getting dark and the fireworks started. We stopped at the YMCA because Sita really needs to borrow the bathroom.  While Sita and Neeraja went, I asked the front desk about rooms and decided we would spend the night there. There was no decent restaurant open since its Diwali. We ended up in this tiny restaurant serving Rajasthani food. I had four pieces of thin doti. When we were at dinner I told Neeraja that I don’t think I can travel with this pace any longer. I am a lazy tourist, I just want to see one or two things a day and spend the rest of time lounging in cafes or watching locals get by the day. travelling 8 hrs in car than walking 3 hrs in a temple is pretty tough work.  Main tourists attractions were never a big thing for me. If the queue is too long, I won’t want to see it regardless how famous the attraction is . So we came to an agreement  with less time on the road and more rest for us.

Next day is the actual Diwali. I got a nice silk top from Sita as the Diwali gifts. The ladies all dressed in beautiful Sari . Neeraja had a blue colored one. Sita had a sand colored with tribal prints on it. when we woke up all the shops and restaurants were closed. Had a simple breakfast , the server had to be reminded for five times about my chai comes with milk. They seem to be in a constant state of high confusion. They were very kind when we left without the water bottle we purchased, one of the server came after us gave us the water.

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Neeraja and Sita

Tamil Nadu road trip to be continued…

Goa – the beach, the resort, and the scooter rides…

We took the train from Bangalore to Goa on the 4 th, overnight arrived Goa on the 5 th at 6 am.

Before I go into detail about the train ride, let’s start with the people I travel with. Uday , Ramya and their 8 year old son Chinno , Pradip, Swapna and their 2 yr son, Uday’s daughter Sonia and her husband Aravind.

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From left to right: Pradip, Swapna holding her 2 year old boy, Chinno, Sonia, Uday, Aravind and Ramya

Pradip works at hospital in charge of putting people to sleep (anesthesia).  His wife Swapna  teaches at a dental colleague. Sonia studies Psychology and her husband Aravind is a doctor. So half of our team are doctors.

The train ride reminded me the first train trip I had  when I was 4 yrs old . It’s quite basic, but the bathroom was clean. I slept throughout the night. The best thing about trains in India is that you can open the doors and enjoy the view. The country side we passed by in the sunset was really beautiful.

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my bed on the train
the view on the train ride
the view on the train ride

The first day in Goa was really interesting. We checked in the resort Marhindra Emerald  Palms in the south town of Goa, near Varca beach. It’s 5 star facility, rooms are clean spacious and the architecture is Portuguese style villas. I shared the one bed room apartment with Pradip family. There are two bathrooms, we have cable tv in each rooms and clean drinking water is provided in bottles.

The only downside of this nice resort soon revealed itself after we checked it. Aravind visits Goa many times coz his family temple is here. He is the local guide we rely on for this trip. Aravind is very good at planning but the problem we have is local tour provider do not want to rent us vehicles. The resort will cause them trouble if they provide service to us . The resort basically monopoly the region, they inflate the price a lot due to rich tourists stay here most of time.

We sorted out the problem in the afternoon, we persuaded a lady near by to rent us a scooter, so Ramya took me on the bike together with Aravind and Sonia we went to the near by city Margao ,visited the famous MMC Newmarket. Most stuff sold there are made in China, but also lots of local produce such as spice, fruits and grains sold there. It was a very colorful market.  I enjoyed the visit very much. Most exciting part of the trip was being on the bike with Ramya. She is one fearless lady on the road. There are cars, bikes coming from all directions, we went through them like we are invisible. I had such high on the bike, it’s pure happiness when we drive through the countryside, soaking in the view, the smell . I think the best way to get to experience a place is by bike.

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Ramya on the bike

The next day Arvin sorted a car for us. The catch is that we had to meet the driver at a secret location in Margao city. It’s about half an hour walk from the resort to city center. Since we have two toddlers, Uday came up with the great idea. Some of us walk. One person got the bike to transport the rest to the location. It worked out brilliantly, by 930 am we all get in the car and started out trip towards Panjim, the central city of Goa. The drive to Panjim was about an hour. Along the way I saw colorful houses, interesting billboard and some warning signs for drivers. Such as drive fine, no fine.

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Immaculate Conception Church, Panjim Goa

Also there are slogans behind the truck saying Blow Horn OK. Ok is in between the other two words. How it works is that if a vehicle wants to pass the truck, blow horn first, then truck driver will switch on the light above the OK sign, it means you can pass. All sounds pretty good in theory, but I didn’t see such action in practice yet.

Panjim was a small city with a river going through, lots foreign tourists there. I visited the church by myself. Peaceful place , old ladies sitting outside. I met two kids finishing school and helped me took some photos. After the church visit I met up with the rest of the group who has done quite a bit shopping. We had the best lunch at Ritz, the crab was so delicious I was almost in tears.

The next place we visited is Fort Aguada. On the way there we saw lots European tourists in hippie clothing. There is one cross road, turn left is to Aguada Prison, turn right is to Fort Aguada. I wonder as a passenger how it feels when your destination is on the left turn. The fort is built by Portuguese. Lots newly weds were there. I was told ladies wearing lots of bangles are northern Indians who just got married.

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Fort Aguada
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the resort

The next day we spent lounging by the pool, we went to another private beach owned by the same resort chain in the area. The beach was stunning. I was reassured that many foreigners will wear bikini there, so I rocked up with mine. Of course turns out only Indian ladies there with their swimsuits , shorts and t-shirts I definitely got my share of attention. It is ok since I was with good company. The waves are quite strong in the Arabian sea. No one surfs there. A few people swim between the flags. I had fun playing with the waves. Uday taught me how to ride a scooter. It was dark on the road, but he was a very good teacher, calm , patient and gave clear instructions. I managed to ride on my own the next morning. Very memorable experience in Goa.

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My India Trip – Bangalore

I visited India last year around this time.

2 weeks ago I have given a public talk at the Diwali celebration in the city I am living in. I went through the journals I wrote on my last year’s trip through south India. So I thought would be nice to tidy up the notes and store them here as well…

Whoever is reading, hope you enjoy it.

I arrived Bangalore in early November on the early morning flight, stayed at Uday and Ramya’s home . When I woke up in the morning I was impressed with the modern buildings around me and also surprised by the cool temperature . The apartment block is in the old cotton mil district. It is right opposite a very colourful Tamil temple.

Bangalore crafts market

In the first few days I get stomach problem a bit. But local friends say they have it once a week or so, it’s expected. At least no need to concern about constipation .

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I listed a few things I took notice of on my very first few days in Bangalore:

1 . Here are so many similarities with China. Lots of construction work in the city, they are developing a new subway system which will hopefully improve the traffic congestion.

Driving here is like in China , with double the chaotic. Traffic rules can be adjusted based on individual needs.

Family is important. The get together and chat have dinner. Remind me of my own family. Also the way people interact are similar, not so much drinking etc, more going out for dinner or stay home play games etc.

2  religion is in every aspect of the society. I saw Virgin Marry and baby Jesus in Sari, people pray next to their bicycle on the side of the road. There are mosques, churches and temples. Temples are the most colorful, Churches all big and seems built with steady concrete. Last night I went out for a drive with friends, I saw the central part of the city at night. We passed by a place with lots colorful lights and some young men hanging outside, I asked if its a pub, my friend almost laughed to tears, turns out it was a temple.

3 food is good, I had the most delicious breakfast yesterday. Lots different types of bread, roti, dipped in curry. Vegetarian food are so yummy here. Ramya has helpers visit home each day to clean the dishes and the floor, the home always kept tidy and clean. The helper also cook the food for the family, quite yummy and simple food.

4 The apartment compound has three swimming pools, gym, table tennis and a squash court. We played table tennis yesterday, it was a lot of fun.

5 I can be Indian ! Ramya and I visited this art gallery at the arts school in Bangalore. At the entrance of the gallery, foreigners need to pay a bit more in terms of ticket price. Ramya told them I am Indian, the ticket counter guy asked his colleague if I could be Indian, the colleague nod the head and said “yes, she looked Indian” . SO I GOT IN with local price . I was really pleased with it and Ramya and I laughed  about this for a long time.

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Apartment block

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