Landed in Yangong. But after spending four hours waiting for the next connection flight we realised it will take another 2 hrs to get to Bagan . All because the travel consultant decided to change our airline from KBG to Air Bagan . Only half way in the air we learnt that it takes two stops on the way to reach Bagan . So a one hour trip extended to two hours . At the second stop the plane had to fill some petrol. We didn’t get off the aircraft instead sitting in the dark and asked to unfasten our seat belt . The underlying meaning is that if there is an explosion you have a chance to run off the plane . Since it’s already dark outside the technician had some torches to help them with lighting while filling the tank . I felt anxious about flying after a very bumpy flight from Akl to Wellington in the ghastly wind a while ago. Have to say I didn’t enjoy the airbus service with the quick landing and take-off , getting people on and off the flight . They did a good job to ensure our bags reach the correct destination despite the chaos at the arrival gate. Before boarding we were all given this sticker to put on your clothes, it indicates which airline you are . Magnus thinks the flight attendants are quite attractive looking which I totally agree . They also serve super sweet juice and soft drinks on the flight except drinking water . Service was not bad overall.
We finally landed at Bagan around 7pm . The first thing once we picked up our luggage was to pay the US $15 per head entrance fee to help with the conservation work of the temples . There are about five staff at the desk keep asking us the same question such as where we from. Our driver took us to our accommodation . We spent about $35 NZ dollar for dinner at the hotel and it’s definitely not cheap considering the type of food we had . That was the last time we had dinner there .
The next day we biked around the new Bagan area . A local young man stopped us and told us about the sand paintings drawn by his father . After a bit of haggling we bought a small piece with 7000 chit . Later on when we went to the temples turned out to be many many more people who were selling the identical paintings also “done” by their parents or grand parents . The village we come across on the bike trip are really poor . People lived in a very simple hut with grass made roof which is pretty much all they own .
We paid US $1 for a 750 ml bottle of drinking water at the hotel room . This is quite a contrast comparing to a normal meal should cost around 500 chit that’s less than 50 cent according to Lonely Planet. I’m normally not so calculating on holidays but in the first few days I did feel like we are just silly tourists who just pay whatever and nothing seem to go to the locals who are really in need of some money .
Part of this in my view is contributed by the big tour groups from Europe , US and Japan . The tour groups get off the bus have little or no interaction with the locals and since the packaged tour is probably covered for most costs they don’t mind paying a bit more on small things like over priced water and beer etc …
We hired a car for US $20 to see the famous Bagan sunset. There is no words to describe the magnificent view . its definitely something to remember for a life time . There are over 4000 temples built in the area . When we arrived at the temple we had to climb up to the patio to get the best view . It’s amusing but also a bit sad to see some late arriving buses honking at the flock of cows . The cows moved so slowly and the sun is setting lower and lower without waiting for the bus to get to the temple. We humans can be so selfish, just because we want to get somewhere we will rush and push whatever is blocking our way.
On the way back we asked the driver for recommendation on places for dinner . He said a few resort type restaurants. When my partner asked which one he personally would go he could not answer, I felt a bit bad because I think eating out is probably a luxury for the locals .Finally we did manage to find a really nice local restaurant which served very good Myanmar curries and noodles . We told the waiter no nuts on the salad , I guess there was a misunderstanding coz the salad arrived with with lots of peanuts mixed . So for food allergy people the language barrier could be a bit risky when it comes to order your meal .
The next day we hired the same driver to Mt Popa. It’s about 1.5 hours drive from the hotel . The temple is built on the top of a mountain . Took about half an hour steep hill climb . Along the way there are cleaners asking for donation because they wipe away the monkey poos. We also need to pay the donation for shoe keeping . Basically every little thing is expected with a donation .
Along the way there are many statues of Nat who are the spiritual gods in Myanmar religion . We didn’t hire the guide to explain what they are for. In the end the whole experience is like watching a foreign film without subtitles . It was worth the trip though . The monkeys we met along the way was quite entertaining too .
I was getting grumpy of being treated like a tourist the whole trip, so I decided to pick a local restaurant for lunch instead of the resort type where the driver wanted to take us . Turns out the place I picked had no price on the menu and the lady just charged us whatever price off her head . We asked for Myanmar curry she walked to somewhere next door got the food for us. Not even cooked from their own kitchen which was a bit weird . The food was not good and we felt a bit stomach upsets afterwards . So my effort of trying NOT to be a tourist back fired on us .
Nov 29th 2013 written at Inle Lake
LIYANG'S THOUGHTS 